I forgot to mention that when we went window shopping the night of Day Three, we went to a Homemade Ice Cream shop just off Hidalgo. GREAT ice cream that the woman behind the counter scooped out of rectangular tupperware containers--really homemade.
Funny story: I was really working hard on my Spanish, so when I went in I said very quickly, "Buenos tardes." Well, I must have sounded pretty decent, because the woman rattled of something, machine gun style, that I had no chance of understanding. So, like an idiot, I said, "que?" And she did it again. Finally, I gave in and said, "Uhhh, habla ingles?" So she started speaking perfect English and I detected some kind of very slight drawl in her voice. While she's scooping out our ice cream, I finally asked where she was from. The answer: Northern Mexico, but she was raised mostly in Houston. Mystery solved.
OK...Day four...up for another sunrise with coffee on the deck at Casa Ixchel. If you've been following the trip reports, you may think this is getting monotonous, but I'm not sure we'd ever get tired of those sunrises.
Rode the golf cart into to town and looked for the bakery that my wife saw the day before. Finally found it, Aluxes, on Matamores, just off Hidalgo. Had an AWESOME bagel and cream cheese. Never would've thought we could get a good bagel on Isla, let alone a great one. Kind of felt guilty, because this was the only non-Mexicano food we'd had the whole trip. But, 58 pesos for toasted bagel, cream cheese, OJ and mocha latte. Yum.
We had our stuff with us, so we made our way up to Buho's on Playa Norte. The staff hadn't yet started putting out the chairs. I used my idiot Spanish to ask how long it would be and got my answer, "Veinte minutos," which I understood. Also asked, "Cuanto cuesta?" (my best favorite and most used line of the trip) and understood 50 pesos. Within about 25 minutes we were on our lounge chairs within 20 feet of the water. About 1/2 hour later, a guy came by and put red ribbons on them and we felt secure in our position.
A great day on the beach, reading, relaxing, wading way out into the water every hour or so. Ordered a great lunch, chicken tacos, chips, salsa, brought right to our chairs. Happy hour started at two and, feeling a little guilty for getting beers that are so easy to get back home, got 2x1 Coronas.
Another funny story: After lunch and a beer, I dozed off in my chair...that's what vacation is all about. I wasn't out for very long, but when I woke up, about 10 feet in front of me on the beach was a young woman on all fours, topless, breasts hanging down, rubbing sand (sand?) all over the back of another topless woman who was face down in the sand. Hmmm...I thought this was a family place. I looked over at my wife like, "Did I just see that?" she started giggling. When I said that when I woke up I thought I was dreaming, she started howling.
This is getting long, so I'll have to break up Day Four into two parts. But by this point, that's what was happening to us. Long days of doing a whole of nothing. Taking pleasure in the littlest of things. To me this is Isla. You can't really describe it to someone who's not been there, because there is SO much significance in such ordinary happenings.
The rest of Day Four in another post.